The Adventure of a Lifetime Begins!
Planning the Adventure of a Lifetime took over a year, being completely Romanced by Rome only took a couple of days!
The past six weeks were a whirlwind as we retired, sold cars, rented our home and made the rounds of doctors and dentists.
As we begin being romanced by Rome we’ll be adjusting to a new time zone and a new language. We also need to locate food and get to know the neighborhood. Oh, and we’ll be exploring Rome too! We are excited and exhilarated to finally begin the adventure.
Day 1 – The iconic Colosseum marks our arrival in Rome.
We check out the neighborhood and look for a market to buy some essentials. A few hundred steps down our little residential street and there was the Colosseum looming in its magnificent splendor. We were thrilled to discover how close our apartment is to this ancient treasure. Next stop was a little neighborhood market just 5 minutes away, the Super Mercado for some groceries. Returning to our apartment, Barbara made our first meal in Rome, a delicious pasta dinner.
Tired, we head to bed with images of Roman gladiators and our new life in Rome dancing in our heads.
Day 2 – Getting Our Bearings
We’re still recovering from jet lag, so we decided to take it easy today, get our bearings and run a few errands.
We stop at an ATM for Euros and a fresh produce market for minestrone soup ingredients. We look for a place to have a nice lunch. Afterwards we stroll a narrow cobblestone lane called Via Urbana which we had heard had a happening street vibe.
An Unexpected Piazza
On our way back, we avoid a long steep set of stairs and find another route to the apartment. We were rewarded us with a glimpse of an interesting looking church and ended at a charming little piazza. We are learning Rome is chock-full with cobblestones, steep stairs and charming piazzas. Just then some patches of blue sky emerged from the dark gray skies. We decide to kick back and relax for a bit on a bench in the piazza. We people watch and allow ourselves to be romanced by Rome, the Colosseum and the Arch of Constantine. Seeing a nearly hidden Metro sign we realize the subway station is right under our feet! Score! The Colosseo metro is very convenient to our apartment!
We are happy that we postponed sightseeing and took time to get familiar with the neighborhood today. Because we are traveling for ten months, pacing our activity will be important.
Our Top 5 Reasons that Slow Travel and an Unscheduled Day are Great!
- Reduced stress by not racing to keep to a schedule
- Live in the moment, recognize wonders and serendipity when they happen
- Follow your whims by walking an interesting lane just to see where it leads
- If you miss something today, there’s always tomorrow
- You can sleep in!
Day 3 – Roaming and being Romanced by Rome
We take Bus 51 to visit the Michelangelo-designed Capitoline Museums located on the tallest of Rome’s seven hills – the Capitoline. Disembarking at the Via Dei Fori Imperial stop was a magical sight. Literally, we see one amazing ruin, enchanting monument, or exquisite building after another! A short walk up a curved lane provides us with a dramatic bird’s-eye view of ruins. We join a seagull in admiring the Forums and the Arch of Septimius Severus.
The lane opens to the Michelangelo-designed Piazza del Campidoglio. We take pictures of the replica of Marcus Aurelius on Horseback, Fontana della Dea Roma, the she-wolf, and an intriguing and colossal sculpture of Marforio, the river-god. The museum is huge, taking up two multi-storied buildings. As it was nearing the museum’s closing time we decided we would come back another time. We were hungry so we head to the museum’s Piazza Caffarelli (café) perched high on the side of the museum to warm up and have a bite to eat.
A Café with a View
The Caffarelli is open to the public without a museum entrance ticket. The café has a lovely little patio with olive trees and a view of bella Roma looking out over the Jewish Quarter in the direction of the Tiber. The café is enclosed in a tent with see-thru panels and plenty of heaters. It’s a great place to sit outdoors but be comfy and warm and be romanced by Rome some more. We enjoy a warming and tasty snack of espresso and mini pizzas topped with paper-thin slices of potato and rosemary…so good…perfect carb pick-me-up and reasonably priced, too.
It was dark as we left Capitoline Hill and crossed over Via Dei Fori Imperiali to look at several large ruins honoring “the best emperor” Trajan who ruled 98 – 117 AD. One of the ruins, Trajan’s Market, is an ancient example of a mixed-use property development combining condominiums, retail and government administration spaces.
The Drama of Ruins at Night
Powerful spotlights dramatically illuminate the ruins and viewing them seems magical to us. This is an experience we missed during the day-trip we took to Rome in 2011. We love that the City of Rome makes the ruins so visible and accessible to the public. It’s like the ancient city is alive alongside aside our modern time. In fact, Rome feels like a giant open-air historical and anthropological site and part Disneyland…so wonderful, words can’t really express how awe-inspiring it is to see up-close. We continue to be romanced by Rome.
We lingered in the area for quite awhile watching a street performer twirling flaming batons to beats from a boombox and getting harassed by a persistent street vendor selling junky trinkets. There was no harm done, but we learned from experience to just shake your head no.
After all that walking we stopped at a neighborhood café on the walk back to our Airbnb and had a nice dinner of bruschetta, spaghetti with a glass of prosecco (notice the focus in the eyes of the waiter as he perfectly poured the bubbly beverage!). It really doesn’t get any better – Cheers!
Day 4 – Rainy, Rainy Rome
The First Sunday of each month Rome’s government museums are free to everyone. We decided to take advantage of this and tour the Forum and Palatine Hill which are a couple of the most visited sites in Rome.
Even though the sky was dark and threatening rain the crowds were large, and it took 20-minutes to get through the entrance. Security is taken seriously – all purses, backpacks and pocket contents are scanned thru an airport type x-ray machine and everyone walks through a metal detector.
Just inside the gate is the Arch of Titus. The arch is covered with ancient Roman ‘propaganda’ celebrating Emperor Titus who ruled around 70 A.D. It’s a beautiful looking monument that illustrates the ancient Roman empire culture – go out and take everything you can; come back home and build something colossal to brag about your conquest.
We downloaded Rick Steves’ free walking tour to listen to while we looked at these ruins. However, with crowds and slippery paths it seemed too difficult to manage and we gave up on this. We found pretty good signage and explanations written in English for most artifacts. There is so much to see and understand that it would be well worth it to take a good guided tour here.
Palatine Hill
Next, we walked up to Palatine Hill where many the Emperors built their palaces. It’s easy to imagine why they chose to live in this place: sweeping panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and distant hills. The ancient structures are mostly reduced to rubble. What was very interesting to us is the remnants of inlaid marble flooring are intact and crumbling pieces of columns just lie where they fell centuries ago. In many cases you can get up close to these ancient artifacts and even touch them. We noticed that each piece is marked with a number which we guess is to catalog the bits and pieces, so they can be studied and reassembled.
Yes, It Rains in the Mediterranean
After a couple of hours, the skies really opened and drenched us in a freezing cold rain, so we ended our tour. We are happy to be here for a while so that we can come back on a day with nicer weather. For some reason we had imagined that Rome was sunny and warm all year round, we’ve learned it has four seasons and it is still late winter.
We stopped at a covered outdoor café with a heater for something warm to drink and relax for an hour. This outdoor café culture is all over Rome. It seems every block has one or two cafés or ristorantes with tables and chairs by the front door. Whenever hunger, thirst or tiredness strikes you can sit outdoors while you enjoy a plate of pasta or a cup of coffee – so enjoyable!
Day 5 – Meandering Monti
Since we left the US last week for ten months of travel it doesn’t surprise us that one or two loose ends have shown up that need our attention. It was another gray chilly rainy day, so we decided to take care of personal business and explore the little Roman neighborhood of Monti while we were at it.
The first order of business was to print out a form that needed to be signed and returned. Luckily, a university bookstore is located across the street from our apartment. They printed an 8-page document for 1 Euro which seems very reasonable. Next, we found a nearby Mailboxes, Etc. to fax the document back for us…they charged 20 Euro…go figure! We haven’t noticed a rhyme or reason to how things are priced. Some things are cheaper than expected and other things are more expensive than expected. I guess we’ll figure this out.
Gelato!
After we completed our errands we headed over to a gelato shop on Via Dei Serpenti called Il Gelatone. Gelato sounded good even on a dark chilly evening and we had heard such good things about this gelateria – and it lived up to its reputation. We tried the chocolate and the pistachio. Both were wonderful, rich and creamy!
Walking around Monti is a little like an athletic obstacle course – its hilly, the cobblestone walking lanes are uneven, and you need to keep your wits about you and keep an eye out for cars and other walkers. Nonetheless, walking in Monti is a lot of fun! We got up close to the sights and sounds of the place we had previously only seen in pictures and for a little while we get to live here.
Day 6 – Two Coins in the Fountain
Today we ventured further out from our neighborhood in Rioni Monti. After figuring out the Metro system we rode two different subway lines and a couple of different bus lines and got a little more familiar with the city. We were surprised and pleased by how easy it was to navigate the Metro, this will be helpful for further exploring. Public transportation is cheap – 3 euro will get you two 100-minute transit tickets good for busses, subway, trams and trains. Our destination today is the famous Trevi Fountain and surrounding area.
Piazza Barberini
On the way to Trevi we came across the Piazza Barberini. The Piazza is a small peaceful island of cobblestone surrounded by a sea of hustle and bustle and traffic. Getting out to the Piazza is a little like playing a life-size version of the classic video game Frogger, you hop out in one traffic lane and when the car stops hop into the next one until you’ve made it across! Barberini square dates from the late medieval period and is graced with an impressive travertine sculpture of Bernini’s 17th-century Fontana del Tritone featuring Triton a mythical sea-god, and the trio of honeybees that is the Barberini coat of arms.
Trevi Fontana
Finally, wouldn’t you know, just as we reached the Trevi, it began to pour rain. The umbrellas came out, but we were completely fixated on the breathtaking beauty of the Trevi Fountain (Fontana). The sheer size and scale and the sound of the rushing water are both calming and so astonishing it’s hard to pull your eyes away. We edged our way down to the water’s edge for a close-up view. Then we tossed our two coins into the fountain to guarantee we return to be further romanced by Rome – The Eternal City.
Day 7 – The Pantheon and Piazza Navona
The early morning was bright and almost spring like! We think we may finally be over our jet lag as we hit the pavement about 9:00 a.m. this morning. Today we are going to The Pantheon and Piazza Navona which are located within walking distance of each other. We are using the On-Foot Guide book Rome Walks to help us find some unique and less known points of interest along the way.
Bus numbers 85 or 87 run from the Colosseo bus stop to the Corso stop which is just a few blocks from the Pantheon. Our first point of interest along our walk is Piazza Minerva which is graced with an unusual elephant obelisk sculpted by Bernini. As we walked toward the Pantheon we came across this store window with colorful and exquisitely made garments for catholic clergy and stopped to take this picture.
Piazza della Rotunda & Pantheon
Next, we took in the sights and sounds of Piazza della Rotonda adjacent to the Pantheon. Like most public areas where tourists congregate the piazza was full of costumed gladiators, street musicians, pushy street vendors and groups of kids on field trips.
We visited The Pantheon briefly several years ago during a Mediterranean cruise, so we were familiar with the structure. This visit is much more relaxed, so we spent more time really enjoying and taking in the interior of this truly amazing structure. It’s hard to imagine the brilliance possessed by the architects and engineers who figured out how to create a 140-foot diameter dome without any supports and without the benefit of power tools or any technology for that matter. That the dome is still intact is just amazing – How many things do we build today that will last 2,000 years?
After we leave the Pantheon we head down Corso and find our next stop at Palazzo della Sapienza which basically translated means the fancy house of wisdom. The name is apt as it was originally the Vatican University!
Piazza Navona & Four Rivers Fountain
Our final sightseeing destination today is Piazza Navona. This big, beautiful gathering spot boasts three fountains, the most famous is the Four Rivers Fountain. There are plenty of people here, but it does not feel crowded. The Piazza is a great place to walk around, enjoy the fountains and just relax after the bustle of Rome’s busy streets and sidewalks.
Day 8 – Dolce Far Niente – The Sweetness of Doing Nothing
Today we are tired from all the walking yesterday. We decide to indulge in the Italian way of life called “Dolce Far Niente” or the sweetness of doing nothing! Isn’t that a great phrase?
We are just going to check out the neighborhood and see what there is in it. Two doors up there is a corner shop with postcards on display that we thought was a souvenir shop. When we stepped in we were surprised to see freshly made panini, an espresso machine and full bar and a small dining room in the back. While many Italian shops specialize in a specific product category such as fresh fruit, medications, sundries, etc., there does seem to be a type of corner mini-market/restaurant which seems to cover just about any need from morning espresso and pastry, potato chips and TUMS to a bottle of prosecco. This place is very convenient so I’m sure we’ll stop in often.
Who Are the Neighbors in Your Neighborhood?
Next, we linger in front of the menu boards at several postage-stamp size hostarias (casual neighborhood eatery) that are full of students getting lunch and stop by the Brew Dog Pub to see what’s on tap.
Then we noticed a landscape crew weed-eating the Ludus Magnus ruins (gladiator training facility). I guess they must keep the weeds down somehow! Sub-subcompact Smart Cars are all over the place here –we saw a woman driving what must be the tiniest street legal car – a single-seater that might not even have room for a commuter coffee cup!
Festa della Donna
We stopped at a corner florist to buy a sprig of Mimosa flowers to celebrate Festa della Donna as International Women’s Day is called here. Last stop was at one of those tiny restaurants overlooking the Colosseum for some bruschetta and pizza.
Day 9 – Trajan’s Market — The World’s First Shopping Mall
It probably shows how much we enjoy learning about ancient Rome. The archeology/architecture bug bit us a few years ago when we toured Pompeii and now one of our top priorities is visiting and learning about the history of these old, old buildings and cities. It amazes us that people living 2,000 years ago were so modern in ways we can appreciate.
Trajan’s Market
Today we visited Trajan’s Market and the Imperial Forum Museum, both located within the market’s structure. Trajan was emperor of Rome beginning around 98 A.D. (for reference about 150 years after the rule of Julius Caesar). Trajan was very popular with the masses and history remembers him as a good emperor who expanded the reach of the empire to its furthest, created a bountiful economy, and undertook many public works projects to benefit Rome’s citizens.
One such project was Trajan’s Market. Designed as a multi-story and multi-use project it contained condominiums, 150 retail shops, and Trajan’s administrative offices all connected with pedestrian thoroughfares and staircases. It was truly an innovative self-contained city within the city.
Imperial Forum Museum
The Imperial Forum Museum starts in the Great Hall, and it is impressive! There are dozens of spaces containing artifacts and multi-media presentations. These explain the language and meaning behind the design, function and ornamentation of the imperial forums. Access to the actual market is available through doors at the back of the great hall. There is a self-directed wandering of the several stories of the market which you can walk through and touch. We were very pleasantly surprised that very few people were touring the museum.
As we stepped out into the ruins, there were just us and a few other couples exploring this very large complex. Looking across the ruins to via Fori Imperiali on the other side, there were large crowds of people shuffling along the main thoroughfare looking at the ruins. We felt as if we had private, up close personal access to this incredible site.
An In-depth Experience
There are more interpretive installations in this area. One that explains how lasers and scanners are used to measure the fragments of sculptures and artifacts. It seems funny the ancient Romans built these amazing structures so long ago without any technology. Now we rely on technology to tell us how to piece them back together. This was a very interesting two-for-one experience (museum and the market) that we spent about three hours touring, we highly recommend it if you enjoy ruins.
A nice feature of the location is the fabulous view and perspective of Trajan’s Forum and Column and the Victor Emmanuel Building (wedding cake building) which you can see from several large terraces.
Day 10 – Nero Fiddled While Rome Burned
Today we visited the Domus Aurea – Emperor Nero’s Golden House. The story of the Domus Aurea begins in 64 A.D. when after a great fire that burned 70% of Rome to the ground. Nero appropriated a large parcel of that land to build an enormous villa to glorify himself. While Nero wasn’t fiddling – the violin had not yet been invented during his time — he certainly seemed insensitive to the plight of people who had lost everything.
The villa’s interiors and exteriors were covered with dazzling white marble. Surfaces were covered with hand-painted frescoes, floor mosaics and gold leaf and jewels. Waterfalls, fountains and pools ran through the interior spaces and the villa even had a massive man-made lake. If all that wasn’t enough to pump up Nero’s ego, he also commissioned a 116-foot-tall brass statue of himself.
Nero’s End
It would be an understatement to say Nero was not a popular emperor, he raised taxes to build his projects. Eventually, he was run out of Rome, tried in absentia and condemned to death, executed and became persona non-grata even in death.
Following Nero’s death his successors made haste to erase every trace of his embarrassing excesses. The villa was stripped of its precious materials. The interiors filled with dirt and rubble and public baths were built over it. This burying helped to preserve much of the frescos that were left. The deterioration of the frescos occurred from exposure to air and water after the buried ruins were discovered 1500 years later.
Put a Colosseum on It!
Nero’s huge man-made lake was filled in and THE COLOSSEUM was built OVER IT. The colossal statue was altered from Nero’s likeness to that of the sun god and moved to a position near the Colosseum.
Discovery of Painted “Caves”
Almost 1500 years passed until a young man fell through an opening in the earth into the Domus. Word spread of the painted “caves.” Renaissance masters Michelangelo and Raphael entered the Domus to see the paintings. Some of their masterpieces shows the influence of the Domus’ painted artworks.
Today, the Domus Aurea is an active excavation site weekdays. Art historians and archeologists involved in the preservation lead tours on weekends. Our tour guide was a young Italian Art Historian. She did a wonderful job of providing perspective on how different rooms were used and would have looked.
A Virtual View of the Golden Palace
One favorite part of the tour is the Virtual Reality room. You wear a pair of virtual reality goggles and watch an astonishing six-minute presentation in virtual reality. The room transforms before your eyes to appear as it did 2000 years ago. Then you’re transported through a virtual garden seeing Rome as it would have looked in the year 64 A.D. Marvelous…we would do the tour again just for this experience.
This tour would be better in warmer months as the temperature underground in the Domus stays very cool year round.
What’s Up Next?
We’ve seen some of the highlights of Rome but we have a lot more to visit. In ten days we’ve begun to settle in and get comfortable with it’s different ways. With a bit more than two weeks left we look forward to being romanced by Rome while we explore the Eternal City some more.
Our goal is to both explore the sights, but also to experience life as locals. Having visited many of the main tourist sites, we can move past the typical tourist experience and go much deeper in living as Romans.
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